Tuesday, April 15, 2025

Adobo para carne de cerdo - Pork Marinade, a Pinedo recipe

Encarnación Pinedo, in her cookbook, El cocinero español, mostly arranged her recipes in categories with those categories in alphabetical order in Spanish.  (I say "mostly" because not all recipes in a category seem to fit into that category.  For example, under her "Fritters" category, we find a recipe for carmelized peanuts.)

Under her "Adobos" category, there is a recipe for a pork roast marinade on page 3.


My Translation


This recipe intrigued me because of her use of mint.  Now I have been experiencing historical cooking for decades, so I am used to seeing ingredients that are otherwise familiar to me being used in ways that are different than what I grew up with.  But mint with meat and it wasn't even a mint sauce or jelly on lamb?  I had to give it a try.

My Redaction

2 dried New Mexico chiles
8 dried costeño chiles
4 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup chopped peppermint, stems and all
1 cup chopped Italian oregano (a cross between oregano and marjoram)
1 cup apple cider vinegar
2.8 pounds boneless pork cushion meat

I love the colors!
Remove stems and seeds from the chiles.  Soak the chiles in hot water to cover until soft, about 15 minutes.

While they are soaking, chop herbs.  Put into a container large enough to comfortably hold the pork.  Add the salt and pepper.

Put the chiles and garlic into a blender with just enough of the soaking water to blend it.  I got a thick, red liquid with small chunks of chile and garlic in it. Pour this into the container.

Use the vinegar to rinse out the blender, pouring it all into the container.

Mix the marinade in the container.

Add the pork.  Turn the meat until all sides are covered by the marinade.   Spoon some marinade over the top.

Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours, turning the meat occasionally.

Drain off liquid but leave the paste and herbs on the surface until ready to roast.* See note below.

When you are ready to roast the meat

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.  

Remove pork from the refrigerator.  Rinse off marinade and pat dry.

Place the pork on a baking sheet with low sides. 

Bake at 425 for 15 minutes, then turn the temperature down to 375 degrees F to finish the baking.  Start checking the internal temperature about 30 minutes in - the goal is 145 degrees F.  Recommended baking time is 15 to 20 minutes per pound.

When baking is done, cover the meat with a tent of foil and let it rest for 10 minutes.  Slice thin and serve.

Pureed chiles and garlic
Herbs, pepper, and salt
Have not yet added the vinegar
At the start of the marinating process
After 3 hours
Two days later, ready for the oven.

My Notes

The goal was a strongly-flavored marinade, and that is what decided the amount of ingredients I used.

I used those amounts of chiles because that is what I had available.  Feel free to change the amounts and the varieties.

I know that different mints have different flavor profiles, but peppermint was the only mint available in my yard at the time I made the recipe.

Similarly, my oregano is nearly dead so I turned to Italian oregano as a substitute.

*My reading on using vinegar in a marinade is that if you leave the meat in it too long, the meat gets "chalky" in flavor and possibly gets a weird texture.  So I chose three hours for the meat to have contact with the vinegar part.  

Once the meat was just in the paste and herbs, it rested in the refrigerator for two days until I had time to bake it.

I removed the meat from the oven when its internal temperature was 140 deg F because resting will allow for more cooking and we like our pork rare.

The Verdict

It looked beautiful just out of the oven.  

Mmmmmmmmm!
Slicing it showed the pale pink we want in our pork roasts. (Note:  The US pork industry is well-known for being safe from trichinosis - but if your local pork supply is suspect, cook it to an internal temperature of 145 deg F to be safe.)

Yes, mmmmmmmm!
My guest taster and I tried various parts of the sliced meat to see how the marinade worked.  We both noticed that the flavor was stronger near the edges and got lighter more towards the middle.  This is not surprising because the marinade was near the edges!

Overall, the marinade flavor was not strong, which I think was good.  It was there and it definitely enhanced the flavor of the meat.  

We both liked the subtle mint flavor!  The mixture of chiles, garlic, oregano, and mint was good, although we couldn't really distinguish the chiles, garlic, and oregano from each other.  I suspect that you could use more of each and still make a good marinade.  Or let it marinate longer, but I don't know how long until the vinegar makes the meat chalky.

It was a pork roast with additional flavors that were good and not overwhelming.  Success!  The leftovers were tasty, too.  Reheating allowed the marinade flavors to shine through better than eating the meat cold.


Tuesday, April 1, 2025

Fluffy Fruit Dressing, AKA Women's Club Fruit Dressing (1940s)

In the two previous posts I wrote about Genevieve Callahan's The California Cook Book for Indoor and Outdoor EatingClick here to see the post with the dressing in it.

Found on archive.org.  An amazing source!

She mentioned a "Fluffy Fruit Dressing" several times but does not have a recipe specifically named that.  One clue she left was that it was in the dressing section, so after reading all the recipes carefully, I concluded that what she really meant was the "Women's Club Fruit Dressing." (Pages 38-39) It is a cooked, flavored dressing that is blended with whipped cream just before serving, thus "fluffy".  

To be fair, it could also be the recipe above it, "Old Fashioned Cooked Dressing" because it, too, is mixed with whipped cream when used with fruit salads.  But its main flavors are vinegar, mustard, and celery seed whereas the Women's Club dressing's flavors were mainly currant and lemon.

This seemed just right to go with the persimmon and pineapple salad.  And, as you saw in the previous post, it was!



My Notes

I could not find currant jelly at the store, but I did buy a jar of currant preserves -- currants in a sweetened syrup.  So I drained the syrup off the fruit by pressing it through a sieve and used 1/2 cup of the syrup.  I did not need to melt it because it was already liquid.

I think it is better to beat the egg whites with the salt and sugar before cooking the lemon, sugar, and yolks mixture.  That way you don't overcook the mixture while beating the whites and it is still hot when the whites are mixed in.

The yolk mixture never got thick while cooking, but it did thicken, so I call that a win.  After it chilled, it was thick.  

I used 1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream that was, after beating, mixed with most of the cooked dressing.

The cooked dressing ingredients
With the currant syrup.

Folding in the egg whites.
              
Cooking is done.
The finished product.


The Verdict

Yes, this was good.  It was acidic from the lemon, flavorful from the lemon and currant, not too sweet, and the fluffy part was a nice complement to the persimmon and pineapple gelatin salad.

Everyone particularly liked the currant flavor, although most said they never had it before.  It adds a deep fruity flavor that balanced out the other flavors of the dish.

I wonder how it would taste if frozen like ice cream.  I think it would be a good topping on a vanilla cake or angel food cake, too.  Honestly, it was good just eaten off the spoon!

Success!