Jamoncillo de coco -- Coconut Jamoncillo, a sweet Pinedo recipe

My Latina friend, who grew up in Puebla, mentioned that she loves coconut.  I showed her this recipe and learned that she did not know what jamoncillo was.  That is when I decided to make it.  It is fun to share with friends!

So what is jamoncillo?  A stroll around the internet reveals one candy company claiming it is a traditional sweet from the Juquila region of Oaxaca.  Larousse Cocina, a site I learn a lot from, states jamoncillo is a category of sweets that are firm and soft, often cut into blocks or bars.  It gives a very thorough description of typical preparations from locations all around Mexico -- a fascinating read that you can see by clicking here:  Larousse Cocina - Jamoncillo.  I find myself intrigued with the ideas of using roasted sugar and smoked milk in the future.

I would equate jamoncillo with fudge or pralines as a more familiar sweets category.

Recall that Encarnación Pinedo published her book, El cocinero español, in 1898.  Her recipes show influence from a wide variety of regions in Mexico.  On page 139-140, she offers Jamoncillo de coco or Coconut Jamoncillo.  Larousse mentions that making jamoncillo with coconut is from the Juquila region and includes piloncillo.  Piloncillo, a dark brown sugar product, is purchased in cones that you grate or chop before using.  

Pinedo's recipe

My Translation

Coconut jamoncillo.

         With two pounds of sugar, make clarified syrup that forms a thread between the fingers, and it is set aside.  When it is removed from the fire it is mixed with ground coconut, and it is returned to boil until the syrup recovers the point it had before. It is removed a second time and is beaten only on one side so that it does not become cloudy; emptying it before it thickens into white wafers on the table.

         While the paste is on the fire, it will be necessary not to stop stirring it continuously, if you want it to be very white. If you want yellow, let it toast a little or roast the sugar before making it syrup.

My Redaction

1 whole coconut 

2 lbs sugar (about 4 1/2 cups)

2 1/2 cups water

And water.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.  Poke open the eyes of the coconut by using a clean screwdriver pounded in with a hammer; drain the liquid into a bowl.  Set the liquid aside.

Pound on the sides of the coconut with the hammer until a crack forms.  Use the screwdriver to hold the crack open, then twist it to expand the crack.  Move the screwdriver to the edge of the crack and keep going until the whole coconut breaks into two pieces.

Put the halves into the oven for about 10 minutes.  This dries the meat a little and makes it easier to remove it from the shell.  It will have a brown liner.  

Put the water and sugar into a saucepan, stir to mix a little, then heat it without stirring until it reaches thread stage, about 230 degrees F.  I used a candy thermometer so I didn't get too impatient.  : )

While the syrup is cooking, break or cut the coconut meat into small pieces.  Grate the white part into a bowl.  The brown part is edible so don't worry if some gets into the white.  

When you've gotten all the white you will get from the pieces, pour the liquid into the grated coconut and stir.  Let it sit while the syrup cooks.

Once the syrup is at temperature, remove it from the heat.  Stir in the coconut with its liquid.  Put it back on the heat with the candy thermometer.  

Stir the mixture continuously while it is cooking.  I found that the cooking process seemed to go the fastest when the mixture was foaming, but I had to be careful that it didn't overflow the pan.  It also seemed to help to stir slowly, just enough to keep the mixture moving.

When it reaches temperature, pour the mixture into a heat-proof bowl to stop the cooking.  Beat it vigorously while it cools.  It will turn white and get thick.

When the mixture is no longer runny and seems to stick mostly to itself, spoon out portions onto lightly greased cookie sheets, spreading them with the spoon to an even thickness.  Let cool.

My Notes

This recipe only uses sugar, water, and coconut.  Some jamoncillo recipes use milk as part of the base and often include nuts or seeds.  Pinedo did not mention piloncillo.  

Beating the hot mixture ensures that only small sugar crystals form when it cools, making the final result softer and with a shiny surface.  

Did you notice she mentioned roasting the sugar?

It was a lot of work to grate all the coconut by hand.  I still had white left over because I was trying to avoid most of the brown liner.

Mostly white.

Leftovers.  Good to munch on.

I ended up with about 7+ ounces grated white and 3/4 cup liquid.

The nice thing about stirring it while it is cooking the second time is that I could watch the mixture closely and adjust the heat as needed to keep it foaming at just the right height.  Patience is a virture here, though.

Pinedo did not say to transfer to a cooler pan or bowl, but it was easier to beat when I didn't worry about touching a hot saucepan.  I think it cooled faster, too.  That was a bonus after all the stirring while it cooked.

Let it foam about this much.

When to stop beating is a judgement call.  The mixture seemed to be setting up, so I grabbed two spoons and used them to scoop and scrape the mixture into wafers.  I made some big (3 to 4 inches in diameter) and some small (about 2 inches) and spread them so they were not too thick.  

At temperature and ready to beat.

Beaten just right.  Looks like thick oatmeal.

I was pleased that I had gotten the jamoncillos so white and that the surfaces were shiny.

The Verdict

I'm not sure why we had to be concerned about it becoming cloudy, since the final result was white from beating a lot of air into it.  Visually, it was appealing because you can see the coconut texture.

Make it smaller.

My guest taster and I both liked the coconut flavor.  We noted it was definitely sweet - I think it is a sugar bomb.  One is enough!  Because of that, I would recommend making each wafer small, like 1 inch in diameter.  That would make more of them and not overwhelm the eater with too much sugar.

I wanted more coconut in each bite.  In the future, I would use purchased shredded coconut (and I don't think it matters if it is sweetened or not) and use at least 10 ounces for the amount of syrup I had.

If you didn't want to make wafers, you could spread the entire mixture into a pan -- keep it thin -- and then cut squares of them to serve.  But I liked the look of the wafers.

So what did my Latina friend think of it?

She thought it was the "perfect candy".  That was a quote!  The coconut flavor was just right for her and she described it as "yummy."  I'm so glad it made her happy.

Success, in more ways than one.  

Another Latina friend realized that this was very similar to a candy she loved as a child in Mexico:  alfajor de coco.  I looked up the recipe and found that really, the only differences were that the candy was cast as a slab and cut into bars for serving, and that the top surface was dyed red.  An interesting connection!

BBQ Ribs -- a recipe from my family

In the early 1990s, my family put on a big reunion.  It was fun to meet cousins for the first time, to see what my grandfather's generation produced, and to just have a good time with nice people.  I decided I wanted to contribute to our gathering by producing a family cookbook.  A few months in advance I sent out a request for recipes and any stories behind them that anyone wanted to share.  I got a good response!

After sorting and typing them up, I added some cute graphics, an introduction, and a contributors list which documented the relationships we all had to my grandfather's generation.  I could afford to print up and have bound enough copies to share without asking anyone for payment.  I liked that part.  People took them and seemed to enjoy having them.

One recipe was given by my mom, MS, about her dad (my grandfather), BP.  

I loved the comment about the "BBQ/incinerator"!  I enjoyed the graphics of the dark pig and the light pig, thinking that the dark one was the incinerated one.  : )

I decided to try it, but use my propane gas grill instead of a homemade, backyard BBQ pit.

Here is the recipe for easier reading:

BBQ Ribs

2 1/2 to 3 lb pkg. spare ribs

1 tsp. celery seed

1 Tbsp. chili powder

1/2 c. brown sugar

2 tsp. salt or 1 tsp. seasoned salt

1 tsp. paprika

Just add meat!

Mix seasoning thoroughly and rub into both sides of the ribs.  Let stand a minimum of 15 minutes.  Cook over hot coals for 45 minutes to an hour.

My Notes

I had a 2 1/2 pound package of spare ribs.  I chose to use regular salt and chile flakes instead of powder.

Unmixed

Well mixed

After I mixed the seasoning, I rubbed it on both sides and on the edges.  The ribs then sat at room temperature for 30 minutes.  During this time I noticed that the juices were drawn from the meat, dissolving the sugar and salt and creating puddles on the upper surface of the ribs.

Not long after the rub was rubbed in.

After 30 minutes of resting.

I heated my grill for 10 minutes, reaching between 350 and 400 degrees F.  I placed the ribs on the grill rack, using indirect heat, and set the timer for 22 minutes so I could see if they needed turning.

Beee-you-ti-ful!

When the timer went off, I discovered that at some point - I know not when - the grill had run out of propane gas.  Grrrrr.  The meat did not look like it had cooked much.  I had no extra propane on hand, so I put the meat on a pan and put it in the oven at 350 degrees.

Baking is like indirect heat, right?

After 20 minutes, it looked good and it smelled good.  The internal temperature was 170 degrees.  I figured it was cooked enough.

I did broil it for a few minutes on each side to brown it well, being careful not to burn the sugar.

Grilled, baked, and broiled.

The Verdict

I cut the individual ribs from the slab, making sure there was meat on each bone.  Then I served about half of them with some good cole slaw (KFC style!) and sourdough bread.

What I noticed is that the rub had turned into a sauce, which I did not expect.  (I had wondered why the recipe said, "Mother made the sauce".  Now I know!)  It made the meat moist and slightly glazed.

The meat was cooked just right, and was tender and flavorful.  I loved the rub/sauce and how it was slightly sweet as well as a little bit spicy.  I was originally worried about the amount of celery seed because I am not a big fan of that on barbeques, but it was just fine.

I thought including chili powder was a daring thing to do for a family in the midwest during the 1930s and 1940s -- my general impression of that time and place is that spices were not commonly used other than, for example, garlic salt as an alternative to salt and pepper.  I could be quite wrong!  

Daring or not, this is a good recipe.  I would do it again, either baking/broiling or grilling.  Or both, if I run out of propane again.

Success!

The second half of the ribs were also excellent the next day.

Aves en nogada de nuez - Poultry in Walnut Nogada, a Pinedo recipe

I have read that the Mexican "national dish" is Chiles en Nogada, made with green poblano chiles stuffed with a savory meat filling, topped with a walnut-and-cream sauce, and garnished with pomegranate seeds.  It originated in Puebla in the 1820s, and my friend who grew up there tells me it is good but challenging to prepare.  

The word "nogada" indicates a walnut-based sauce, and Pinedo gave us three recipes with nogada in them.  None of them use cream and all of them call for breadcrumbs soaked in liquid.

I chose the recipe on page 23, which puts the nogada over cooked chicken.

Pinedo's Recipe

Aves en nogada de nuez

My Translation

Poultry in Walnut Nogada

    The chickens will be cooked in water with vinegar and salt, and immediately they are cut apart; each piece is coated in beaten egg and fried in hot fat.

     Nuts and soaked breadcrumbs and garlic are ground: at the time of serving them, the nogada will be [put] on top, with a tablespoon of olive oil.

My Redaction

2 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs

2 cups water, or enough to barely cover the meat

3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups walnuts (shelled)

1/2 cup dried breadcrumbs (or less, see below)

1 teaspoon crushed garlic

3 eggs (but I think 2 would do it), well-beaten

oil for frying

1 tablespoon olive oil

Place the chicken thighs in a deep pan, add just enough water to barely cover, then add the salt and vinegar.  Swirl the pan to mix the liquids.

Bring the liquids to a boil then turn the heat down so it is just barely simmering.  Set the timer for 10 minutes; when that time is up, turn the thighs over and simmer for another 10 minutes.  Skim the foam that floats to the top while the chicken is cooking.

In the meantime, grind or pound the walnuts until they are small- and medium-sized bits.

When the chicken is done, remove it from the pan and set it on a plate to drain.  

Begin heating about 1/2 inch of oil or fat in a skillet.

Soak the breadcrumbs mixed in 1 cup (or more! see below) of the broth from the pan until they do not look dry anymore.  

Mix the walnuts, breadcrumbs, and garlic together to make the nogada.  Set aside.

Pour the beaten eggs into a bowl.  Dip a piece of chicken into them, coating all sides.

Fry the chicken in the hot oil, turning once, until golden brown on both sides.

Set fried chicken on a serving platter.  When all pieces are done, pour or spread the nogada over them, then drizzle with the olive oil.  Serve.

My Notes

Since I used thighs, I didn't have to cut the chicken up after simmering.  Cooking them for 20 minutes got them mostly done and the frying finished cooking them through.

Barely covered in water

Simmered and now draining

I originally guessed at 1/2 cup breadcrumbs and 1/2 cup broth, but decided to add 1/2 cup more broth after I saw how thick the soaked crumbs were.  Even after I mixed them with the nuts and garlic, I still thought it was too thick but chose to leave it as it was.  It was spoonable but not pourable.

Nuts and garlic on the left, breadcrumbs on the right.

Mixed with the extra liquid.  Still thick.

The oil for frying was hot but made the meat more golden when I made it hotter.  I fried two thighs at a time so the oil temperature wouldn't drop too much. 

Frying and getting golden.

Ready for the nogada!

I had a lot of beaten egg left over after cooking all the chicken, so two eggs probably would have worked.

Nogada spread and olive oil drizzled.

The Verdict

I served the chicken with some coleslaw and wine.

I was pleased to see the thighs were cooked all the way through.  

My guest taster and I both thought the nogada could have been thinner, so it was pourable, but there wasn't anything really wrong with having it so thick.  I think I would use 1/4 cup breadcrumbs next time, and then once they were mixed with the nuts and garlic, keep adding broth until the nogada was a consistency I liked.

We both believe that the thick nogada would be a good sandwich spread.

The sauce's flavor was very nuanced.  We could taste the garlic, but it was very subtle, which we liked.  The nuts were the dominant flavor and we liked their slight crunch.  We could even taste the salt and vaguely the vinegar from the broth.  My guest taster, who loves salt on his food, was quite satisfied with the very light salt level of the nogada.  This surprised me.

We liked the flavor balance and blend very much.  

The chicken had almost a Chinese vibe to it, which I attributed to the egg-only coating and being fried.  It went well with the sauce as it was not heavy or strongly flavored.

Over all, the meat and the slightly crunchy nogada with its nutty and mildly garlic flavor went well together, and we declared it a success.

I shared it with my friend who grew up in Puebla.  She liked it, including the mild garlic flavor and the salt level.  It was a different experience for her, since she mostly cooks Mexican food with a lot of chiles, but one she enjoyed.  

It would be interesting to see what the nogada is like when it is thinner and pourable.  I don't think I would change the flavor balance at all.

Traditional New Mexico Panocha

I watched Pat Varela's video titled "La Madre Making New Mexico Panocha", where he documents his mom's method of making panocha, a porridge-like dessert often served during Holy Week, between Holy Thursday and Easter Sunday.  Click here to watch his video.

His mom is so sweet and kind as she talks us through the process, explaining where she got the recipe and giving preparation tips along the way.  I took notes and was able to acquire some panocha flour so I could make it, too.

La Madre's Panocha Recipe

4 cups panocha flour

2 cups whole wheat flour (plus a little more later)

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 cups warm water

1 piloncillo, shaved

1/2 cup brown sugar (she added more after she tasted it)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Sift the flours and salt together and place in a large baking pan.  Add water, a little at a time, stirring well and smashing dry flour lumps.  Once this is all well mixed, add the piloncillo and brown sugar, again stirring well.  Add more water if needed in order to make a very moist batter; add a little more whole wheat flour if the batter is too wet.  Taste for sweetness and add more brown sugar if desired.

Cover pan and bake for 2 1/2 hours.  The result should be a golden brown, thick, and very moist looking.

My Version

I had only one bag of panocha flour, so I made about 1/2 of La Madre's recipe.  

2 1/2 cups panocha flour

1 1/4 cup whole wheat flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 3/4 cups warm water

1 piloncillo

1/2 cup brown sugar (this includes the little extra I added to make it taste sweet)

That dark brown cone is the piloncillo.  The brown sugar is not in the picture.

I used my large Dutch oven, which comes with a lid.  I mixed it with a whisk instead of a spoon, which worked well to get rid of lumps.  I just had to push some dry flour out of the inside of the whisk when I was nearly done mixing.  

I pounded the piloncillo in a mortar; the pieces needed to sit in the wet batter for a few minutes to fully dissolve.  A rubber spatula was helpful in mixing the sugars into the batter completely.

Pounded piloncillo.  I think it should have been pounded more.

Nearly ready to be baked.

When I tasted it for sweetness, I thought it needed a little more.  This is how I got to 1/2 cup brown sugar.

I wasn't sure if my batter was wet enough, but I didn't want to add any more water at that point.

It smelled good -- almost toasty -- while baking and was done in 1 hour, although I think it could have baked for less time.  See The Verdict below.

My Notes

Panocha flour is made from wheat that is sprouted and dried before it is ground into flour.  This is different from whole wheat flour, which is not sprouted at all.  An article from FlavorInsider.com states that spouted wheat flour is more nutritious than whole wheat flour because it has a higher fiber content and offers more vitamins and antioxidants.

The article also points out that whole wheat flour's flavor is slightly nutty whereas sprouted wheat flour is decidedly sweeter.  I suspect this is why both were chosen for this recipe in the first place.  

A piloncillo is a solid, dark brown cone made from unrefined cane sugar that is boiled, thickened, and poured into a mold.  Sometimes it has spices such as cinnamon or cloves mixed in.  It is different from brown sugar which is a mixture of white sugar and molasses.

The Verdict

I tried it hot out of my oven and then took the rest to a social gathering where I knew people were willing to try something different.

I felt I might have overbaked it because it had an almost bread-like crust over the entire surface, whereas I saw only a little of that around the edges in La Madre's result.  It was very moist underneath the crust, though.

Right out of the oven.  I worried it was bread!

Not bread!

The taste was lightly sweet, making me glad I added the extra brown sugar.  It was thick, sticky, and made me feel like I was eating oatmeal for breakfast, but sweeter.  I think it was the chewy wheat bits and its granular texture gave me that impression.  Instead of a smooth porridge or pudding, it had a more robust mouthfeel.

I enjoyed it as it was, as did my usual guest taster.

It was refrigerated before going to the gathering, so once I was there, I microwaved it for three minutes to get it hot again.  It was very thick, so I also added boiling water and stirred it until it was thin enough to drop off the serving spoon but not so wet that it would slump all over a plate.

The reactions I received were mostly positive.  A few people did not like it at all; the impression I got was that they disliked either the texture or the sweetness.  Some said they liked it as it was and one thought she had tasted it before somewhere.  Others had suggestions for improving it.

For example, one person who loves to cook described it as "softly sweet" and he liked it, but he would add chiles to it -- powdered or flaked -- just a little to bring the flavor over the top.  Others thought cinnamon or vanilla or both would be good.  I kept wishing to add sliced almonds and raisins.

One said it was good, but it was mostly sugar that he tasted, so after a few bites, he would not want to eat any more.  He wanted something else to make it "complete" but could not determine what that would be.

Another said he thought it was made with masa, that he liked the taste and the flavor of it.  One non-carb eater liked it in small amounts and said it had a rich flavor.

The next day I tried small amounts with other ingredients added.  It was good with cinnamon.  I liked a little vanilla in it.  I tried a little more salt but that wasn't right.  

I also tried it with raisins and some peanuts (I didn't have sliced almonds available).  That was good, too, although I'm not sure I would use peanuts again.  The raisins were a good addition.

I think, though, that my favorite combination was with cardamom and raisins.  

Success!

I realized that my wish for almonds and raisins was based on how much it felt like eating oatmeal for breakfast.  I believe that panocha is a form of comfort food -- that if you were raised on it and your memories are of your mother or grandmother making it, then eating it brings back those warm and comforting feelings.  

I found other versions of this recipe which include cinnamon and/or vanilla, but were still called "traditional."  That is probably what the recipe author grew up with or even made on their own.  Wonderful!  I would not want to mess with someone's beloved tradition, but if it makes it an even better experience for you and your family, I encourage you to try it.

One final note.  Pat Varela mentions that "[i]n days of old, it was made in an old lard tin and later it [the tin] was thrown away because it is hard to clean", which doesn't surprise me.  Cooked starches tend to be sticky like glue and become rock solid when dried.  I kept this in mind once the panocha was baked.  When the Dutch oven was empty and the panocha in a serving bowl, I immediately started soaking the Dutch oven in soapy, hot water, as were the utensils that had touched the panocha.  

Even with occasional scrapings, it took soaking the Dutch oven overnight before I could get all the baked panocha off the sides and bottom of the pan.  Don't let it get cold or dry!  Start cleaning it right away!

Costillas de carnero panadas -- Breaded Mutton Ribs, a Pinedo recipe

This particular Pinedo recipe appealed to me for several reasons:  it was a main dish using lamb (which I love) and it looked so simple -- just three ingredients!  I know the recipe says "mutton", but I could only obtain lamb, so I did my best.

I obtained a rack of lamb that was small, given that only two of us to eat the meal.  

Original recipe, pgs 86-87:

My Translation

Breaded Mutton Ribs

    Butter is melted and the ribs are put in it for a quarter of an hour. Before serving they are put over a very live fire, being careful to turn them when they have browned on one side.

    They are arranged in the shape of a crown, set aside and sprinkled with breadcrumbs on both sides, taking care that they are well covered.

    They are immediately placed in a platter, with breadcrumbs on top and bottom, and a quarter of an hour before serving they are put on the grill over a very active fire, being careful not to cook or burn the bread. 

 

My Redaction

1.7 pound rack of lamb's ribs

1 stick (1/2 cup) butter (I used salted)

1/2 to 3/4 cup dried bread crumbs

That's all, folks!

Over medium heat, melt the butter in a pan wide enough to hold the rack of ribs.  

Place the ribs in the melted butter over medium-low heat.  I had it just hot enough that the meat in the butter had bubbling going on.  Set the timer for 15 minutes.

At 7 1/2 minutes into the cooking, flip the ribs to cook on the other side.  

Remove the ribs from the butter.  Place them over a hot fire on the grill to cook them further and to brown them.

Remove from the grill, roll them into a crown with the rib ends up, tying it with a string to hold the shape.

Coat them thickly with all the breadcrumbs that will stick to the meat.  Take back to the grill to cook them more, allowing the heat to turn the crumb coating into a crispy, golden crust, but not burned.

Serve and enjoy!

My Notes

My thought was that most of the cooking was done in the butter, since the fire on the grill was supposed to be "lively", i.e., hot.  That is why I kept the temperature low enough to keep from cooking the outside too quickly.  My meat did brown, though.

Before cooking in the butter.

After 7.5 minutes.  One side browned.

Fifteen minutes was not enough to cook the thickest part of the meat, but it did cook it about halfway into that thickness.  

I was confused by her wording as I wasn't sure if the ribs would be cooked twice on the grill or not.  I chose to cook them twice because I thought that otherwise there would not be enough time for the meat to be cooked.  My goal with the first time on the grill was to get the meat browner and to cook the meat further.

Goal achieved!

My rack was too small to roll into a crown shape.  On the other hand, it was easy to coat with the breadcrumbs.

As many crumbs as would stick.

When I returned the meat to the grill, I turned the heat down so as not to burn the crumbs and to give them a chance to change from dried crumbs to something else.  The crumbs absorbed the butter and the fat in the meat to make a crust. 

Mmmm.  Look at that crust.

I think I probably rushed the second grilling, not giving it a full 15 minutes (timing it was a challenge while I was fixing other dishes for the meal).  I wish I had given it more time as I could see some pink to the meat.

The Verdict

I cut the rack into individual rib pieces and served it with flavored couscous and a sliced tomato salad.

And a nice pinot noir.

Some of the meat was rare, which my guest taster and I like, and some was very rare, I would saw raw, which my guest taster likes but I am not fond of.  I mostly served the rare pieces and set the raw bits aside for reheating (and thus more cooking) later.

The flavor was amazing.  For all that it was just meat, butter, and breadcrumbs, it was wonderful.  I think the salted butter was the right choice, even for someone like me who is not a big salt eater.  It bumped up the taste enough to make it more than "just meat."

The crumb crust added a lovely crunch to each bite, the butter was a subtle background flavor without being greasy, and the meat was tender and ... meaty ...  

We enjoyed our meal, and my guest taster said he would eat this dish any time I wanted to fix it.  We each cut the meat off the bone with our knives and forks, but had no restraint about holding the bones with our fingers to finish nibbling off the last bites.  

Success!  And put a bowl on the table to hold the discarded bones.

For to Make Murrey -- a Mulberry Pudding

My mulberry tree is producing great quantities of fruit this year.  I've been sharing with friends and finding different ways to utilize this bounty.

Project Gutenberg's digital version of The Forme of Cury, a collection of recipes from the late 1300s AD England, which can be found here, offers an intriguing, simple dish that I would call a dessert, but could also be served as side dish to a robust main course.

I interpret it as a pudding, that is, a thickened, sweetened dish flavored with fruit juice.  Back then it was called Murrey:

XXXVII. FOR TO MAKE MURREY [1].

Tak mulbery [2] and bray hem in a morter and wryng [3] hem thorth a cloth and do hem in a pot over the fyre and do thereto fat bred and wyte gresse and let it nazt boyle no ofter than onys and do thereto a god party of sugur and zif yt be nozt ynowe colowrd brey mulburus and serve yt forthe.

[1] Morrey. Part II. No. 26. [2] This is to be understood pluraly, quasi mulberries. [2] Read wryng. For see part II. No. 17. 2B. Chaucer, v. wronge and ywrong. [sic]

In other words,

Take mulberries and pound them in a mortar and wring them through a cloth and cook them in a pot and add fat bread [crumbs] and lard and let it not boil more than once and then add a good amount of sugar and if it is not colored enough, pound mulberries [and add them to it] and serve it.

My Redaction

2 cups mulberry juice (see My Notes below)

1 tablespoon shortening or lard  (I used vegetable shortening)

1/2 cup sugar

2 cups bread crumbs (dried, not fresh)

That is about 4 pounds of mulberries!

Put the juice and shortening into a saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the fat is melted.  Add the sugar and stir until it is dissolved.  The juice might be steaming at this point.

Add the breadcrumbs.  Stir and cook over medium or lower heat -- as the mixture thickens, the heat may need to be reduced and the mixture stirred more often so it cooks without scorching.

Cook until the mixture is thick enough to pile up on itself when a spoonful is scooped up and dropped onto the rest.

Serve warm or chilled.

My Notes

The fresh mulberries went into a blender, which is a modern version of braying them in a mortar.  😀

Then I put the resulting puree into a cloth bag, closed the top with my hand, and used the other hand to start squeezing the juice out into a measuring cup.  The bag kept the seeds, stems, and some of the pulp out of the juice.  The juice was not clear and that did not matter to me.

I changed the order of mixing because I knew the bread crumbs would thicken the mixture, and I wanted the fat melted and the sugar dissolved before that happened.  Part of redacting is finding my way through the recipe to determine quantities.  I wanted to know that I added enough (but not too much) fat to achieve a good mouthfeel.  The same for sugar -- was it sweet enough but not too sweet?  I taste along the way, and I felt that the breadcrumbs would shift that test enough to make it hard to tell.

Early heating -- juice and melting shortening

So feel free to follow the order given in 1390 with my measurements.  

Also consider using butter instead of vegetable shortening or lard.  Be aware that your butter is probably salted, which will change the flavor -- it might even make it taste sweeter.

My bread crumbs were made from a few days old, slightly stale French bread loaf, so probably not a "fat bread".  If your crumbs are fresh, you made need a larger quantity to achieve a good thickness.  If they are very dry, you might need less.

The mixture with the bread crumbs did boil but only ever-so-slightly, more like a few "blurps" in the thickened version.

I felt the color was right, so I did not add any more berries or juice.

Starting to get thick

The Verdict

Still warm and very thick

We tried it still very warm from the pan, then cool, and then thoroughly chilled.

We felt it was thick enough even while warm to be just right.  It had a good mouthfeel: enough to taste rich (but not overwhelming) and substantial.  There were chewy bits from the larger chunks of bread crumbs, which we liked.

My guest taster, not knowing all that went into it, could taste the mulberries, thought there was lemon juice in it, that the sweet-tart balance was just right, and enjoyed it very much.  He liked it even more when it was cooler, and his favorite was when it was thoroughly chilled.

I agreed with his flavor assessment.  I liked it best warm or cool.  I liked it chilled but I felt the fat amount was too much; if I planned on serving it chilled, I would reduce the fat to probably 1 teaspoon.  I did not like the feel of grease on my lips while eating it chilled.

I wondered if it would be better with less sugar, and he felt that it would be too tart that way.  My mulberries were a mix of very ripe, ripe, and somewhat under ripe fruit, so the amount of sugar may vary depending on the overall sweetness of the juice.  

We both felt that the murrey did not need any spices.  The fruit flavor was dominant and didn't need enhancement from spices.  We wanted to taste the mulberries!

Success!

It would make a good side condiment to roast meat, especially when warm or cool.  But also as a dessert.  If a dessert, I think I would add some fresh berries on top when I served it.

Would 1/2 cup sugar to 2 cups juice have been considered a goodly amount in 1390?  I don't know, but the goal is always to produce a dish that is tasty, and I think I accomplished that.

I think the technique would translate well to using store-bought pomegranate or cranberry juice.  The sugar amount would have to be adjusted, so start off with less and add while tasting to get to just barely sweet.  The idea is to let the fruit flavor shine through.

Another variation idea is to mix some fresh pieces of mulberry into the finished pudding.  Or garnish the top with pieces or a whole berry or two, depending on the size.

Guisado de patatas -- Potato Stew, a Pinedo recipe

It's time for another Pinedo recipe!  Today's choice is on page 114, in the Guisados or Stews section.  

My Translation

Potato stew.

         Raw potatoes are peeled, diced, fried in fat, and set aside. Onion, tomato, chopped parsley are fried, and boiling water, salt, pepper, and oregano are added. In this sauce put the fried potatoes with two or three tablespoons of grated cheese, letting them boil over a moderate heat.

My Redaction

3 pounds potatoes

5 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion

a little olive oil

1 1/4 pounds tomatoes

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh oregano

3/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon pepper

2 cups boiling water

3 tablespoons grated cheese, more for garnish

And butter, olive oil, and boiling water

Heat a little butter in a frying pan while peeling and cubing the first potato.  Fry those pieces over medium heat, adding a little more butter as needed to keep them from sticking to the pan.  Stir occasionally, but let the pieces sit on the pan so they develop a golden crust.  The goal is to brown them.

Once they are browned, remove them to a bowl.  Repeat for each of the potatoes.

When the last batch of potato pieces are cooking, heat a little olive oil in a Dutch oven or large saucepan.  Peel and chop the onion, then cook it over medium low heat until translucent.

Core and dice the tomatoes and finely chop the fresh parsley.  Add to the onions and continue to cook them until most of the liquid has boiled off.

Add the oregano, salt, pepper, and boiling water.  Mix well and simmer until the tomatoes are falling apart.

Add the potatoes and stir well.  Add the grated cheese.  Let simmer over low heat until the raw tomato flavor is gone and the stew tastes balanced.  Adjust the salt and pepper amounts as needed.  

Serve with a little grated cheese on top as garnish.

My Notes

I chose to use butter for frying the potatoes and olive oil for the sauce.  You can choose whatever you'd like!  I kept the amount of fat in the pan to a minimum so that I could get a good golden crust on the pieces.

I did not peel the tomatoes, but you might want to if you don't like pieces of skin in your stew.

I used grated asiago cheese, but I think cheddar, parmesan, or romano would also work well.

The sauce was thin until the potatoes were added, then it thickened to a good consistency.

The first batch, nearly done

Onions, tomatoes, and parsley, oh my!

All together now.  Let the simmer begin.

The Verdict

I served it with a little asiago as a garnish.  My guest taster would have been unhappy with a meal that didn't have meat, so I included a grilled boneless chicken thigh as a side dish.

Yum!

I really enjoyed the potato flavor in the stew.  It was like eating French fries in a sauce, which I liked.  The sauce was very mild; it was a background flavor to the potatoes.  I could taste the complexity of the tomatoes, onions, herbs, and spices, as could my guest taster.  However, we both described it as mild, not earth-shattering.  But it was still tasty!

We both added a little more salt and agreed that it would be best to let each person salt it to their taste at the table than to add more salt to the stew.  I think a little more pepper would be a good idea -- perhaps bump it up to 1 teaspoon to give it a little blast.

I'm not sure I would add the grated cheese to the stew again.  It didn't seem to contribute much to the flavor.  But adding some on top was nice.

Success!

It was not a spectacular meal, but they don't all have to be.  It was tasty, filling, and interesting with potatoes as a main base.  I see this stew as either a main dish or a side to some roast meat.