Sunday, January 15, 2023

Valparaíso Fritters -- a Pinedo recipe

Internationalliving.com tells us that 

The seaside city of Valparaíso, Chile has historically been the major port linking the country to the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. ...

Valparaíso is known as the "Jewel of the Pacific" and is one of Chile's most romantic cities.  Before Spanish and European settlers arrived on the continent, Chile was inhabited by the Chango and Picunche Indigenous people.  After the arrival of Spanish settlers, Valparaíso became known for its fishing industry and served as a stop-over port for travelers and Spanish explorers traveling along the coast.

Chile.travel adds

Bohemian and colorful, Valparaíso's maze of hills has long inspired poets and writers.  You'll discover something new at every turn:  a gem of a building, a remarkable art gallery or some little gastronomic 'find'.

During Miss Pinedo's lifetime, Valparaíso was an important stopover port for people traveling to California for the Gold Rush, so it is reasonable for her to have knowledge of it and to possibly have known people who had been there.  She includes a recipe for Valparaíso Fritters on page 39.

(If you are not familiar with my collection of Pinedo recipes, search this blog and the California Food Project for the keyword "Pinedo" to view them.)

My Translation:

Valparaiso Fritters

         Make a dough with two egg yolks and a half tablespoon of salt. The hard dough is made and spread with the rolling pin, immediately cutting it into half-inch squares. These squares will go into very hot fat.

         White sugar syrup will be prepared; an extract or a glass of sherry or marasquino will be added, cinnamon or the juice of a lemon, cleaned and toasted walnuts, and the fritters.

         It is all placed in the confectionery, and it is served.


(Note:  Marasquino is a sweet liqueur made from marasca cherries.)

My Redaction

1 cup sugar
3/4 cup water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
flavoring (I used 2 tablespoons orange blossom water)

2 egg yolks
1/2 tablespoon salt
2 cups flour

oil for frying

walnuts (I used almonds), toasted


My Notes

First I made the syrup by mixing the sugar into the water, bringing it to a boil, then simmering it and stirring it until the liquid was clear (about 2 minutes of simmering).  I added the lemon juice and orange blossom water while it was still hot, then let it cool.

Simmering syrup

I didn't have walnuts available so I substituted almonds.  I toasted them in a hot, dry frypan, stirring them constantly.  They were done when they had some spots of browning, they smelled good, and I heard some popping sounds.  They went into a bowl to cool.

Miss Pinedo does not list flour as a dough ingredient, but I think it is obvious.  What concerned me was how much flour to use, and if I needed any other ingredients to go with it.  I decided that she probably mixed in flour as she saw fit, and my only clue was to make a "hard dough."  I used about 2 cups flour, into which I put the salt and egg yolks.

This the egg yolks were absorbed quickly by the flour, so I kept adding water until I had a "hard dough."  It was a bit dry but not so much that it fell apart when I rolled it.

At this point, I put a vegetable oil in a frypan and started heating it.

Pre-dough

Hard dough

The next challenge was to determine how thick to roll the dough.  My instinct said to make them thin.  I tried about 1/4 inch thick first, and was not surprised that this was too thick.  That is, I rolled the dough, cut off a few little squares, and fried them.  They were too chewy and hard to eat.

1/4 inch is too thick

So I tried about 1/8 inch, and that worked out well.  At least while I was cooking them because they were tender and crisp.  But see my notes at the end of the post.

I found that putting a small handful of squares into the hot oil was a good amount:  they first clumped when cooking, then I stirred them to separate them, which also helped to cook both sides.  Once they were golden brown, I removed and drained them, then placed them on absorbent paper.  


Clumped

Stirred and nearly done

Draining

Once I had the thickness and frying time worked out, I was able to get a routine going of rolling the dough, cutting it into strips then squares, then frying.

Rolled, then cut into strips

Little squares.

The key was to put in just a small handful of squares to cook in each batch.  The time it took for them to cook was about the time it took to cut another batch.

The amount of dough I made turned into a good quantity of little fritters.  I mixed them with the toasted almonds.


I was serving them later, so I didn't pour the syrup over them.  I kept that separate until serving time.

The Verdict

This is what it looked like upon serving:


I included a slotted spoon to drain off the excess syrup.  We ate it approximately 2 hours after I finished frying the fritters.

They sure looked cute.  However, they were tough and no longer crispy.  I could eat them but they weren't enjoyable.  Another problem:  the 1/2 tablespoon of salt was too much.  I could taste the salt and one of my guest tasters, YT, noticed it, too.  

Perhaps the almonds should have been slivered.  But the fritters themselves were not entirely pleasant to eat so it was hard to tell if the almonds should have changed.

The syrup was very tasty, although I think I would use less orange blossom water, like one tablespoon instead of two.  YT commented that it tasted a lot like jasmine tea and enjoyed it.  

So I would call this a failure.  I'm not sure how to make the fritters better unless it means serving them as soon as they were out of the hot oil.  Maybe there is a tweak I could make to the dough to make it stay crispy after they cooled?  

I wondered if letting the fritters soak in the syrup would help.  I let them soak for several days, trying them several times to see if they would soften:  no, they did not.  

By the way, the amount of syrup I made could easily been cut in half and still had plenty to put over the fritters.  However, having extra syrup was wonderful to put on a blueberry Dutch baby pancake for breakfast and sometimes to sweeten a cup of tea.  That part was a success!



Monday, January 2, 2023

Happy New Year Twelve! - Chocolate Mousse Cake to Celebrate (part 2)

Yesterday I posted on how to make the chocolate chiffon layers for my 12th year of food blogging celebration.  Today I show how to assemble the cake.  Click here to see yesterday's post.

I'm using a recipe for Chocolate Mousse Cake as found on pages 134-135 in The Greyston Bakery Cookbook, by Helen Glassman and Susan Postal.

ISBN 0-87773-323-6

It is time to bring all the parts together!


Chocolate Mousse Cake

1 recipe Chocolate Chiffon Layers (2 layers, baked and cooled)

Chocolate Mousse:

3 cups heavy whipping cream

2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa

3/4 cup sugar

Chocolate Water Glaze:

8 ounces semisweet chocolate

1/2 cup water

1/8 cup simple syrup (see directions below)

1/8 cup beaten egg (1/2 egg)

4-ounce semisweet chocolate bar, slightly softened in a warm place

Carefully split cooled cake layers in half.  Place carefully on waxed paper on a flat surface.

Mousse:

Whip cream with sifted cocoa and sugar until quite firm, using an electric mixer.

Place first cake layer cut side down on cake plate.  This prevents cake crumbs from coming loose in the mousse.  Spread top evenly with about 3/4 cup mousse.

Repeat with additional layers, always placing cut side down. 

Frost the entire cake, top and sides, with remaining mousse, covering thinly but completely.  Chill in freezer about 1 hour.

 Chocolate Water Glaze:

Melt semisweet chocolate and water in heavy saucepan over low heat.  Stir well to make a smooth chocolate syrup.

Blend in the 1/8 cup simple syrup, made by boiling 1/2 cup water and 1/2 cup powdered sugar together for 10 minutes.

Remove from heat and allow to cool for 3 - 4 minutes.

Blend in the beaten 1/2 egg and mix thoroughly.

Let glaze cool until it is just a little warmer than body temperature.

To Finish:

Carefully shave warmed chocolate bar with a potato peeler or sharp paring knife.  Use the entire 4-ounce bar.

Pour the warm glaze on the chilled mousse cake, sides first, smoothing with a knife, followed by the top.  The top should be as smooth and even as possible and should be poured on, not spread like a frosting.

Press the chocolate shavings all around the sides, working quickly before the glaze sets.  Keep refrigerated until you are ready to indulge.

Ingredients for the mousse
Ingredients for the water glaze
My Notes

I make the simple syrup before starting on any of the other steps, although you have time to make it during the 1 hour chilling time.  Once the powdered sugar and water mixture comes to a boil, turn the heat down to medium low and simmer.  Stir occasionally.

To split the layers, I prefer to use toothpicks as guides and dental floss or heavy thread to cut.  This keeps everything accurate while making the layers simple to split.  See the pictures below.

If any of the layers break while moving them, just piece them back together in place.  

Chill the mixing bowl and beater before making the whipped cream. 

Plop a spoonful of mousse in the middle of the layer and then work the mousse out to the edges.  This cuts down on crumbs embedding in the mousse, too.  Aim to even it off across the top before the next layer is placed on it. 

I use up all (well, most) of the remaining mousse to frost the entire cake, even if the layer isn't thin.  Then I eat the little bit of mousse that is in the bowl.

Once the sides have mousse on them, make a final pass over them with a clean, slightly damp spreader held vertically.  This smooths the sides.

When mixing the beaten 1/2 egg into the water glaze, whisk the mixture while drizzling in the egg.

Shaving warm chocolate bars is messy!  Chocolate gets all over my hands.  Plan for that mess during the procedure.  I included in the pictures below the difference between the small shavings of a room-temperature bar and the long ones of the warm bar.  I thought some were too long to go on the cake well, so after they cooled to room temperature, I broke them.  That worked well.

I used a ladle to put the glaze on the sides.  Once some was on the sides, I used a lightly buttered spreader to even it out.  The order was:  glaze the sides, then the top, then smooth the sides, then press on the shavings.

I did my best to get the glaze on smooth and evenly, but I did manage to drop a piece of shaved chocolate on the top, which messed up that smoothness.  So I took a spoon and swirled the glaze decoratively around the edges of the top.  That covered the mistake and still looked good.

Here are pictures of the process:

Place 5 or 6 toothpicks at the halfway point of the layer.

Wrap the dental floss around the cake.  Pull the ends to cut the cake.

One half of a layer, neatly split.

The mousse

The first layer with mousse

All layers with mousse.
Ready for the freezer!

Chocolate and water.

Smooth.

Cooling.

Room temperature shavings.

Warmed chocolate shavings.

Glazing the sides.  Spread the glaze upward after the pour.

Glazing the top.

The final cake.  Note I cleaned up around the bottom of the cake, too.

The Verdict

I imagined Paul is in the tent and is judging my creation.  The first step is to critique the portioning of the layers and mousse.


I think Paul Hollywood would say I did a good job in getting the proportions right:  the mousse layers are fairly even in their thickness and are close to (but smaller than) the thickness of the cake layers. The water glaze thickness is consistent across the top of the cake and not too thick on the sides.

Generous but not too much so.  Well, I really don't know what Paul would say, but I'm happy with it!

The next step is to judge the flavor.  I love this cake!  The layers are rich and slightly bitter.  The mousse is light in both flavor and texture, keeping the cake from becoming too heavy.  The water glaze adds a bit of chewiness, which is nice.

But let's not go with just my very-biased opinion.  I shared the cake with several other guest tasters.  Everyone thought it was GOOD.  One guest, AD, noted that she has purchased a similar cake from her favorite bakery, but that mine was better overall and definitely more generous with the chocolate shavings.  

Another guest, FT, put her piece in the freezer until she was ready to eat it.  The book authors suggest this idea and say if you only let it defrost a little, it is like eating an ice cream cake.  FT agrees.

Success!  Again!  I'm labeling this recipe as a Most Favorite and not waiting for the end of the year.  At some point I'll try other cake recipes from the book, or at least I think.  : )

Hint:  the authors give us many variations on the mousse flavors along with ideas on how to use them other than on cake.  You can see some examples on the book cover picture.  Well worth it!

Sunday, January 1, 2023

Happy New Year Twelve! - Chocolate Mousse Cake to Celebrate (part 1)

Wow.  2023 marks the beginning of the twelfth year of this blog.  For the record, this is the 263rd post and there have been more than 110,000 page views.  There are followers on this blog and also on the Pinterest board of the same name.

My cooking abilities have improved because of my blogging experience:  one guest taster noted that many of the recipes I have tried could be considered "technical challenges" a la the Great British Baking Show.  So true!  They fall into the category of "here are the ingredients and a general guideline of what to do, now make it and it should taste good."  The thought made me laugh and also reflect on how my attitude towards cooking has loosened over the years.  

This has increased my confidence in my ability to create.  For example, after a holiday gathering I took a variety of leftovers from my refrigerator and made a stew:  olives, pickled mushrooms, andouille sausage, chopped carrots, cherry tomatoes, French onion soup, and half a jar of marinara sauce were lubricated with some beef broth and simmered until the scent was luscious.  I didn't add any other seasonings and it was just right, served up with leftover biscuits on the side.  A wonderful light dinner after several days of holiday treats.

My blogging explorations have wandered far and wide across time and cultures.  It is what I hoped for when I started blogging, and yet went even further than I had anticipated.  I did not expect to translate an historic cookbook, and I did not know about cookbooks from, for example, medieval Syria, medieval Transylvania, ancient Baghdad, railroads, and Ukraine.  My time at several culinary symposia was well-spent in trying recipes, techniques, and new foods, and (most importantly) meeting people who love historical cooking, too.  I have learned and made friends.

I plan on continuing this blog and will get back to the California Food Project blog when time permits.  I enjoy learning more about the food and history of my home state.  Just the other day I read a book containing letters written by Laura Ingalls Wilder (of the Little House on the Prairie fame) while visiting her daughter Rose in San Francisco during its Panama-Pacific International Exposition in 1915.  Along with getting a visitor's view on that world's fair, there are a few recipes at the end of the book.  I plan to try one.

So I decided to celebrate these accomplishments with a recipe that could be considered a Most Favorite, but I didn't want to wait until December to post it.  

The cookbook is The Greyston Bakery Cookbook by Helen Glassman and Susan Postal.  The authors both trained at the Tassajara Bakery in San Francisco then helped to found the Greyston Bakery, which is operated by the Zen Community of New York.  From the inside flap of the dust jacket:

In just a few short years, the Greyston Bakery ... has established itself as one of the leading practitioners of the fine art of baking.  Greyston uses only the finest natural ingredients -- rich, dark chocolate, real butter, pure maple syrup, and fresh fruit -- to achieve the delicate textures and subtle flavors that make its cakes, cookies, and breads epicurean delights.

ISBN-10  0-87773-323-6

I haven't made many of their recipes (because calories!) but what I have made was good and the directions were specific enough to be really helpful.  The chocolate mousse cake is one I have made many times since I obtained the book in 1989, but not recently.  Sometimes I just make the mousse filling (using one-third of the quantities) as it makes a lovely dessert all by itself.  Recently I modified the mousse filling and used powdered ginger instead of cocoa powder to make a topping for a pumpkin cheesecake.

This cake requires two of their recipes:  one for the chiffon layers, found on page 133, and the other for the completed cake, found on pages 134-135.  This post covers the layers.  The next post covers assembling the cake.  Let's get started, shall we?

Chocolate Chiffon Layers

6 egg whites 
1 1/2 cups sugar
3/4 cup vegetable oil
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
dash salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Butter two round 8-inch cake pans.

You will need three bowls (two large, one small).

Beat egg whites until soft peaks form.  Gradually add 1/2 cup of the sugar and continue beating in large bowl of mixer until very stiff.

Mix oil, egg yolks, water, and vanilla in small bowl.

Sift dry ingredients together into the other large bowl:  cocoa, flour, rest of sugar, baking powder and soda, and salt.

Add yolk mixture to dry mixture.

Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites and gently incorporate.

Pour into two prepared pans.

Bake at 350 degrees for about 25 minutes, until the sides shrink and top springs back when lightly pressed.

My Notes

Note that the sugar is divided, and I've found it helps to measure it out into the 1/2 cup amount for the whites and then measure separately the 1 cup that goes into the dry mixture.  

I've also found it helps to put the small bowl with the containers of the wet ingredients in one place on the counter and the large bowl for the dry ingredients in another.  This organizational scheme reduces mistakes (don't ask!).  I usually use a measuring cup as my small bowl.

I followed the directions in order and had no issues with the process.

My layers were ready after 27 minutes.  I let them cool for 2 1/2 hours before moving on to creating the cake.

What follows are pictures of the process with comments along the way.  

Soft peaks and ready for the sugar.

Stiff!

Most of the wet ingredients.

Dry ingredients mixed.

Wet and dry mixed.

Batter completed with egg whites folded in.

Apportion the batter evenly between the pans.  

Finished layer baked to perfection!