Apples and Onions -- One of My Most Favorite Recipes

I reserve the last post of the year for one of my most favorite recipes.  This is my 13th year of food blogging (!), and I struggled to decide what to write about.  I have favorites, but which one should I pick?  One day I realized that a very quiet favorite -- one that I cook often but really don't think about much -- was a side dish that was both versatile and historical:  apples and onions.

Versatile:  I use it as a side dish to a main course such as baked chicken, a robust stew, or grilled salmon. It is fabulous with pork.  It is wonderfully supportive because it adds sweet, tart, and savory notes, depending on the ingredients you choose.  But it is also a good side dish for breakfast foods, such as French toast, pancakes, or omelets.  It adds the same notes but its overall flavor profile can be adjusted according to the spices and their ratios.

Historical:  I keep finding recipes or references to it in a variety of cultures over a wide span of time periods.  It seems that if a culture has both apples and onions available to it, it has discovered how wonderful the combination is.  The main differences are which spices are utilized.  In other words, once people taste it, they like it, and they pass that information to future generations.

The quantities I choose depend on my use.  My questions are:

Do I want more apple than onion?  Or more onion than apple?  Or a balance of their flavors?

I typically use spices such as black pepper, cinnamon, and salt.  Sometimes I throw in saffron or nutmeg or ginger or cardamom, depending on my mood and goal for the meal.  So I also ask:

Do I want it leaning towards savory or sweet?  

What are the spices used in the rest of the meal?

The answers direct the ratios.  Savory means more black pepper than cinnamon; sweet means more cinnamon than pepper.  Use both, as they complement each other well as I have learned from cooking medieval English recipes.  I might also include some herbs.

Another choice I make is about the fat used to cook the apples and onions.  Olive oil works well for the savory direction and butter for the sweet direction.  

I also decide how I want to cut up the apples and onions.  Do I want chunks or thin slices?  Often I will chunk the apples and thinly slice the onions, so I get a contrast of shapes.

The final decision is the type of apple:  a tart cooking apple really contributes a tang to the final dish, which goes well with savory meats and sweet breakfast breads.  But an eating apple that stays firm when cooked adds more sweetness, and that can be lovely, too.

I made it for this blog with the idea it would be a side dish to a main course of baked chicken.  I had very tart cooking apples and brown (yellow) onions.  I used black pepper and cinnamon in equal measure and salt to support them.  And I used olive oil.

Apples and Onions

2 tart apples

1 small yellow onion

1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon or less of olive oil

Peel and then thinly slice the onion.

Heat olive oil in a fry pan.

Add the onion and slowly saute it.

In the meantime, quarter and core the apple.  Cut into bite-sized chunks.

Add to the onions.  Mix well.

Saute apples and onions together, stirring occasionally.  If it looks dry, add a splash of water.  If you are in a hurry, put a lid on the pan to steam the apples, which cooks them quickly.

Stir in the spices (to taste).  Cook a little while longer to allow the spices to flavor the dish.

Taste and adjust spices as desired.  Serve hot.  (Also good reheated.)

My Notes

Well, most of my notes are written before the recipe.  When to add the apples?  When the onions are almost cooked to where you want them.  Do you want them transparent?  Browned?  Your choice!

How long to cook the whole thing?  Until the apples are tender.  Or further, if you want the spices to really infuse.

The spice range is to your taste.  I used the upper values for the pepper and cinnamon.

This quantity is good for 2 to 4 people.

Thinly sliced.

Chunks.  Leave the peel on!

Apples and onions cooking together.

With the spices just added.

Done!

The Verdict

This is always good.  I've been known to eat it as a meal in itself.  

My guest taster thought the spices were just right.  I thought that maybe they would be too strong for people not used to them.  Use your good judgement.

Success!

And cheers to the end of 2024.

French Milk with Baked Pumpkin -- Two Pinedo recipes

It is fall and that means pumpkin season!  I went to a favored produce stand and bought a small sugar pumpkin, which is a variety fit for eating.  Standard jack-o-lantern pumpkins taste terrible, so you should always aim for a variety designated for pie fillings.  I didn't want a big one, so this was just right.

On page 43, Pinedo offered instructions on how to bake a pumpkin where the result is ready for adding to cakes, pies, or empanadas, which are small hand pies.  Once I had it baked, I needed to do something with it.  Fortunately, on page 143, she offered a recipe for "French Milk", which looks like a pumpkin-flavored rice pudding.

Her recipe, page 43:

My Translation

Pumpkin for cakes or pies

         A pumpkin is cut through the middle, and through the cut take out the guts and the seeds; add sugar inside thickly and cover well with the same piece that was cut out: when this has been done, put it in the oven; let it cook.

         Once cooked, the shell is removed, and [the rest is] ground, passing it immediately through a sieve in order to pour it into a little milk and put it back on the fire until it has the point of paste.

My Redaction

4.5 lb sugar pumpkin

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup milk

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.  Cut the pumpkin to form a lid that is easy to remove and replace.  Use a spoon to remove the seeds and strings.  Coat the inside, including the lid, with sugar.  Put the lid on.  Place in a baking dish.  Bake for 1 1/4 hours or until the sides are easily pierced with a fork.

Remove from the oven and let cool until it is easy to handle.

Pour any liquid inside the pumpkin into a food processor or blender.  

Using a small paring knife, remove the outer skin and discard.  Cut the cooked pumpkin meat into chunks.

Working in batches, puree the chunks until very smooth.  The liquid helps to start the process; leaving some of the puree in the processor helps the next batch.

If you puree it well, you don't need to pass the pulp through a sieve.

Put the puree in a saucepan and add the milk.  Cook it over low heat, stirring often, until it is very thick.  Remove from heat and refrigerate.  

My Notes

I cut it open like I cut for a jack-o'lantern.

Seeds and guts removed!

Miss Pinedo probably used more sugar, but I knew my pumpkin was probably tasty without much.  I coated the sides and lid.  Some of the sugar was dissolved in the pumpkin's moisture before I took the picture.

Cooked.  You can see the fork holes where I tested it for doneness.

The cooked pumpkin interior.  See the accumulated liquid?

Chunks, followed by puree.

The about 5 cups of puree was pretty thick, so I didn't feel I needed to cook it much longer to thicken it.  I mixed in the milk and cooked it just a little while.  Once it was thick enough to create a "canyon" in it with a spoon, I declared it done.

Mixing in the milk.  Not quite to canyon stage.

Now it is ready for the next recipe, French Milk!

Her Recipe, pg 143

My Translation

French milk.

         Add some clean, ground rice to a quart of milk, some egg yolks and sugar to taste. Everything together is passed through a sieve and cooked with a stick of cinnamon.

         Having boiled well, a piece of cooked pumpkin is put on it and passed through the sieve, agitating it until it is about to white manjar.

         Then a little orange blossom water is added and it is emptied into a plate, garnishing it on top with almonds and cinnamon.

My Redaction

5 tablespoons ground rice

1 quart whole milk

5 tablespoons sugar (or to taste)

3 egg yolks

1 stick cinnamon

1 cup pureed pumpkin

1/2 teaspoon orange flower water

Garnish:  chopped or slivered almonds and ground cinnamon.

And the pumpkin and garnish.

Mix egg yolks, milk, sugar, and ground rice together.  Pour through a sieve or strainer into a saucepan.  Since the idea is to break up any lumps, if some of the rice stays in the strainer, pour the milk mixture through again to push the rice through it.  

Add the cinnamon stick.

Cook over medium heat until the mixture starts bubbling, then turn the heat down so the mixture simmers.  Cook until the rice is soft and the mixture is thickened. (For me, a total of 40 minutes.)

Remove the cinnamon stick.  Add the pumpkin and mix well.  Continue cooking until the mixture is thicker (but not necessarily very thick).  Remove from the heat.

Stir in the orange flower water.  Put the French Milk into the serving bowl.

If you want to serve it warm, sprinkle on the garnish.  If you want to serve it chilled, cover and refrigerate it, then add the garnish just before serving.

My Notes

I wasn't sure what ratio of rice-to-milk I should use in order to get, but a walk around the internet suggested the 5 tablespoons of rice.  

I guessed at 5 tablespoons of sugar, too.  I didn't want it too sweet as that usually dulls the other flavors, and I wanted to taste the pumpkin and the orange flower water.

The purpose of the egg yolks appears to be to add richness.  You can adjust the amount to your liking.  

Keep an eye on the mixture as it cooks -- mine almost boiled over at one point.

Mixed, sieved, and ready to cook.

Cooked, thicker.

With the pumpkin.  Pretty!

Garnished and ready to serve.

The Verdict

The first time, I served it warm.

My guest taster loved it and thought it was perfect just the way it was.  He thought the sweetness level was just right.  While he couldn't identify the orange flower water flavor, he recognized there was a floral component to the overall flavor profile.

I thought it was good, too, especially the light pumpkin flavor.  However, I felt it needed more sugar and more cinnamon.  Once I added that to my bowl and mixed it in, I felt it was right.  I could taste the orange flower water and liked how it complemented the pumpkin.

We both thought the almonds were a good addition, since they added a crunch to an otherwise completely smooth texture.

The second time, I served it cold.  It was thicker and had a robust mouthfeel, and I realized it was just right.  It did not need any more sugar or cinnamon.  

I thought the pumpkin and orange flower flavors were better blended, too, which I liked.  

I declare it a success!  

Here are my recommendations:  

If you are going to serve it warm, use more ground rice to make it thicker.  Add another tablespoon or two of sugar and be generous with the cinnamon garnish. 

But if you will serve it chilled, don't change the ratios.  It was a delicate dessert even with the more robust mouthfeel.

If you really love pumpkin, you might add in more, but I wouldn't add more than 1/2 cup extra.

As a side note, this recipe made me think of a recipe from the 14th century, in England, in a book called "The Forme of Cury."  

Notice that it uses almond milk instead of cow's milk - a common practice in the days when cow's milk was not always healthy to consume - and it is thickened with "flour of rys", ground rice.  It is flavored with ginger, sugar, and salt.  

This is so similar to what French Milk is, with upgrades to include egg yolks, other flavorings, and a garnish.  I view it as a proto-type rice pudding.  It always gives me a thrill to see a connection to a recipe going back (in Pinedo's case) 500 years.

Using one cup of the pureed pumpkin left me with 4 cups, so I made a pumpkin bread (from The Joy of Cooking book) and pumpkin soup, from my own design.  Yum!