I’ve mentioned before that I have a sweet tooth, and it
kicked in when I was choosing the Pinedo recipe for this post. I’ve been eyeing her rice puddings recipes
for a while. Today I chose one that
takes a long time to prepare because, well, I had the time!
On page 216 she lists two rice pudding recipes, and the
first one intrigued me. The rice is
cooked in milk for three hours.
My Translation
So, let’s get started. I chose to make a half quantity of her
recipe. At the beginning I wasn’t sure
if she wanted the rice to be cooked first and then simmered for three hours, or
if the rice was only simmered in the milk for three hours. I chose the latter.
My Redaction
¼ pound white rice
1 quart whole milk
about ½ tablespoon butter (plus more to butter the dish)
½ cup raisins
½ cup sugar
4 egg yolks
2 egg whites
½ tablespoon orange blossom water
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Put rice in a sieve and rinse it well. Add the rice to the milk in a large saucepan. Cover the pan and bring the milk to just a bare simmer – bubbles were forming and it looked “foamy.”
Remove the cover, stir the rice well, reduce the heat to the
lowest possible, and set the time for 1 ½ hours. Stir occasionally.
When the time is up, add the raisins, butter, and
sugar. Stir them in well and set the
timer for 1 ½ hours. Watch the rice
carefully, stirring often, especially after the first hour when the mixture
starts getting thick.
When the total of three hours of cooking is over, remove the
rice mixture from the saucepan and into a big bowl. Allow it time to cool, at least 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (325 degrees if using a
glass or ceramic pan). Butter an 8 x 12
inch baking dish.
While the mixture is cooling, separate the eggs. Beat the yolks well. Beat the whites to stiff peaks.
Once the mixture is cool enough not to cook the eggs, mix in
the yolks, cinnamon, and orange blossom water.
Stir them in well. Then fold in
egg whites.
Spread the mixture in the pan. Bake for about 30 minutes or until the edges
are lightly browned and the center is somewhat firm.
Serve warm.
My Notes
I chose to cook the rice slowly in the milk because I
couldn’t see how to boil the rice to “done” without overheating the milk. I believe that Pinedo wanted the milk to be
cooked very slowly the entire time and never brought to a boil.
After I brought the rice and milk to a simmer, I noticed the
rice was sticking to the bottom of the pan.
So I stirred it with the intent to break the rice away from the
bottom. I was successful.
I first put the saucepan on a simmer mat over the lowest
flame on my stove (1 of 10). After the
first 1 ½ hours, the rice was barely cooked and a “skin” was on the
surface. So I removed the simmer
mat. That cooked the rice a lot faster, which
is why you need to watch it closely in the second 1 ½ hours so it doesn’t
overcook. Feel free to remove it from
the heat earlier if the mixture is very thick and threatening to stick to the
pan.
When the mixture went into the bowl to cool, it smelled
good. The white milk, rice, and sugar
had all changed to a lovely golden color.
That long, slow cooking gave the sugars in the milk and sugar a chance
to caramelize.
I didn’t wait until the rice mixture to be completely cooled,
just cool enough to “not cook the eggs.”
It was comfortably warm to the touch.
Ready for my mouth! |
I served it warm as dessert after dinner.
Not too thick, not too thin. |
The first thing that I noticed was how very delicate the rice pudding was. Most rice puddings that I have tried are served cold and are creamy and somewhat heavy because they are thick. I expected this baked rice pudding to be similar in texture to a bread pudding. I think folding in the egg whites “in a snow state” made the pudding soft, fluffy, and delicate because the egg whites act as a leavening agent. (Similarly, the second rice pudding recipe on that page uses “yeast powder,” which is baking powder, also a leavening.)
I also thought the pudding was surprisingly sweet. Not overwhelmingly sweet, but I only put in ½
cup sugar, and it tasted sweeter than what I expected from that quantity. Was it the caramelization? Was it the raisins? I don’t know, but I thought the sweetness
level was just right. The cinnamon
amount was right, too, because I think if there had been more added, it would
distract from the delicate texture.
I did not think the orange blossom water was very
noticeable, but my guest taster identified it immediately. When I focused on my tastebuds, I could get a
sense of it. It was a subtle support
flavor that was quite appropriate.
It was also moist without being wet or cloying. I appreciated that.
Overall, success! It
was tasty warm from the oven, cold the next day, but even better the next day
warmed up slightly.
If I did it again, I would add more raisins. I love raisins!
If you put it into a smaller baking dish, you would get a thicker pudding. That might affect the baking time. I liked the thickness. I think it emphasized the delicate aspect of the pudding.
We who cook on a stove instead of a fire like Pinedo did and
live our lives faster than I think she did don’t generally think of cooking
something for hours on end. I found it
easy – once the milk and rice were cooking, I could do other things nearby and
I just had to walk over to check on it occasionally. I recommend trying this recipe. It is different from a standard cold rice
pudding, and I think you will enjoy it.