Tomato Pudding (AKA Pie) - A Shaker Recipe

I laughed when I realized my last six posts were all about desserts or sort-of-desserts.  My sweet tooth obviously took control of my decision-making process!  So I went on a search for something more savory to prepare.

I'm still exploring The Best of Shaker Cooking by Amy Bess Miller and Persis Fuller.  With over 900 recipes, you can understand why it takes time to peruse.  There are so many temptations!  I found a recipe for lamb shanks I would love to make; it is almost time to find lamb shanks in the stores.  Fingers are crossed.

ISBN 0-02-584980-8

This recipe comes from the Vegetable section (See?  No desserts!).  There are twelve tomato recipes; within the recipes they have a quote from a Shaker sister:  "We have tomatoes for every meal -- fried for breakfast, stewed for dinner, soup for supper."  The Shakers were good gardeners and good cooks - which I envy - and their tomato recipes show us how to fry and stew them, but also how to bake and broil them, as well as making dumplings, custard, pie, puddings, salad, and toast.

The recipe specifically labeled as "pie" is basically sliced tomatoes bound together with a mixture of sugar, cream, egg, and nutmeg, and placed between two crusts.  

The recipe I tried is called a pudding.  It is a cooked filling on top of buttered crumbs and topped with a crust.  They offer a second pudding recipe that is similar, using bread cubes on the bottom, crumbs on the top, and the filling has more herbs.  I chose the simpler one to see what the filling is like without all the extras.  Besides, it is fun to make pie crust.  

The recipe source is credited to the Hancock Shaker Village.  Click here to visit their website.

Tomato Pudding (page 158)

4 cups canned tomatoes cooked down to 2 cups

1 cup light brown sugar

1 tablespoon grated onion

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1 cup bread crumbs

1/2 cup melted butter

1 pastry lid for 8 inch pie plate

Combine first 5 ingredients and bring to a boil.  Simmer to thicken.  

In an 8-inch pie dish put bread crumbs, cover with butter, top with tomato mixture, and cover with pastry crust.  Bake in 350 degree F oven for 30 minutes.  Watch to see that bottom doesn't burn (use tip of knife to lift up crust).  Tomatoes burn easily.  Serves 4 - 6.

My Notes

First I made the pie crust dough and let it rest in the refrigerator while I did everything else.

The three cans of diced tomatoes yielded 43.5 ounces instead of the 4 cups = 32 ounces asked for in the recipe.  I decided to use it all and reduce to about half.

Being cautious about burning the tomatoes while reducing them, I keep the heat on very low for a long time.  This wasn't really reducing the quantity, so I turned the heat up after a few hours but watched it carefully and stirred it to make sure nothing was sticking on the bottom.

When it reduced to just under 3 cups (not quite half), I decided it was time to add the other flavors.  I adjusted their measures up a little to match the greater tomato quantity. (Not the sugar.)

To be honest, I was surprised at the amount of sugar listed in the recipe.  (Not that I was complaining, and still not a dessert!)  I wondered if it could be lowered and still taste good.

I also started preheating the oven at this point.

The instructions said to bring to a boil and simmer to thicken, so I put it on medium heat until it started to boil and then put it down to low to just a bare simmer.  I decided that "to thicken" meant to dissolve the sugar and to give the flavors a chance to infuse.  I wasn't sure it would thicken up much more.

It actually did thicken a little more (or was it my imagination?) and it tasted good.  I liked the hint of pepper.  It was a bit sweeter than I expected for a savory recipe.

The bread crumbs made a thick base in the pie pan.

There were no directions to mix the crumbs and the melted butter, just to cover the crumbs.  So I did!  I just poured the butter over the crumbs.

And then I poured the filling over it all.

You can see how full the pan was, which shouldn't have surprised me considering I made more filling that the recipe called for.  I decided it was acceptable because all that was left was to place the crust.

The filling was still very hot and I worried that the crust would be melted if it took me too long to get it "just right" once it was in place.

So I rolled the chilled crust and used an 8 inch cake pan as a guide for where to cut the crust to fit the pie pan.

Leaving an allowance for a decorative edge.

Then I flipped the crust on top of the hot filling and went to work to form the edge.  Boy, did I work quickly!

And then I popped it into the hot oven and set the timer for 30 minutes.

I checked it "using the tip of a knife", barely lifting the crust to see how the filling looked.  It darkened but did not look or smell burned.  I checked after 20 and after 25 minutes of cooking.  

It did overflow the pan - again, not surprising - but I had another pan underneath to catch the drips.

At 30 minutes the crust was nicely browned and it all smelled good.

I let the pie cool to lukewarm before serving.

The Verdict

Cooling allowed the filling to set up and firm before slicing.

I was impressed at how well the layers showed and stayed distinct.

I was also pleased that the tomatoes didn't burn.

I served it with a tossed green salad and a little sliced pork on the side.  It was nice to have the meat be a side dish in this meal.

As for the flavor:  it was good!  A distinctly tomato flavor, with some savory from the pepper and possibly from the onion.  The filling was very moist but not runny.  The top crust added a rich mouthfeel and a crispy crunch.  The bottom crumbs layer added a more chewy crunch, just like a similar crust you find on cheesecakes. 

Success!

Yes, it was sweet but not overly so.  I think you could reduce the sugar by at least 1/4 cup and still have a good result.  

My guest taster thought it was just right as it was.  I loved it, too, but I think it would be better with more pepper and some lemon zest.  The second tomato pudding recipe calls for more onion and adds parsley and basil, and a lot less sugar (lists 1/4 cup).  That would be good, too, and make it more savory.

We enjoyed the leftovers warmed up the next day.

Dried Apricot Cake - A Shaker Recipe

Sometimes when I am thinking about this blog, I just pick a random book off the shelf and browse through it, looking for ideas.  Today I was drawn to The Best of Shaker Cooking, by Amy Bess Miller and Persis Fuller, which was published originally in 1970 and this revised edition in 1985.

ISBN 0-02-584980-8

Shaker cooking is interesting because of the use of herbs and also because those folks really used and polished their recipes.  Cooking tasty, nutritious food was a noble goal in their eyes, as evidenced by this "Comment on Kitchen Education" from the Shaker Manifesto, published in 1883:

The origin of many of the troubles which afflict mankind may be traced to a disordered stomach. ... Give the stomach good, wholesome food, and it will fill your veins with pure blood; which in turn will give you a healthy brain and drive away the whole brood of manufactured troubles. 

The manifesto quote is on page 434 of the cookbook, and is followed by the authors' "Note on Shaker Cooking."

Shaker cooking is not a collection of recipes but rather an attitude toward food and its preparation.  In Shaker kitchens meals were planned and cooked to satisfy both bodily and, in a sense, spiritual hunger.  The Sisters prepared food as efficiently, nutritiously, and tastily as possible.  ... They knew, too, that meals must "create contentment, joy and satisfaction in those who partake of them."

I look at each recipe as one that is proven and pushed to be its best.

In skimming through it, I realized first that I wanted a dessert (my sweet tooth was speaking loudly to me) and second, I had a bag of dried apricots that needed to be used.  A dried apricot cake seemed to fit the requirements.  This recipe had the added bonus that it required sour cream (which I had) and not milk (which I didn't have).  It is credited to the North Union Shaker Village, Ohio.  You can read more about the history of the village by clicking here.

Shaker Dried Apple (or Apricot) Cake (page 213)

1 cup dried apples (or apricots)

1 cup molasses

2/3 cup sour cream

1 cup sugar

1 egg

1 3/4 cups flour, sifted

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon cloves

1/2 teaspoon salt

The apricots were soaked the night before.  Just apricots and water left on the counter.

Soak dried apples in water overnight.  In the morning cut fine and simmer in molasses for 20 minutes.  Cool.  Combine cream, sugar, and egg and beat until smooth.  Combine dry ingredients and sift several times.  Blend both mixtures and beat until smooth.  Add fruit and molasses.  Turn into buttered bread pan and bake in  moderate 350 degree F. oven for 1 hour.  This is a very tasty dessert; the dried apples take on a citron flavor.  Makes 1 cake.

My Notes

Plan ahead of the day you are making this cake because you have to soak the dried fruit overnight.  

I took the drained, soaked apricots and first sliced them thinly, then chopped them until they were small bits.  Some bits were smaller than others.  

I love the ulu knife.

I put them in a pan with the molasses, brought them to a simmer over medium heat, then reduced the heat to low for the 20 minute simmer.  I stirred them occasionally.  

Before cooking

When the 20 minutes was up, I turned off the heat to let them cool.  This was a good time to start preheating the oven, although it took more than an hour to cool the fruit.  This is also a good time to butter the loaf pan.  I put the oven to 325 degrees because I was using a glass loaf pan.

After cooking

For the rest of the recipe, I just followed along through the steps as directed.  Here is the sour cream, sugar, and egg after mixing.

Then, in a separate bowl, I placed the dry ingredients.  It is helpful to have the brown spices because instead of sifting the mix, I whisked it until it looked well mixed, and the brown spices show me that.

Both mixtures blended together nicely.

And then the fruit and molasses mixture went in.

I noticed that the mixture started bubbling right away, so I moved quickly to get the batter into the bread pan.  Since I wasn't sure how much the cake would rise, I was concerned that putting in all the batter into one pan would overflow it, so I grabbed another loaf pan, buttered it, and put the rest of the batter in it.  Both pans were no more than 2/3 full.

After one hour of baking, the loaf pans came out.  I was disappointed to see that both had collapsed in the middle, although poking in a pick told me they were cooked through.

I let them cool for a little while, then pulled the cakes out of their pans and let them finish cooling on a rack.  Having them upside down made them look better, but I don't think Paul Hollywood of the Great British Baking Show would have been fooled by this.

The Verdict

These are dark cakes and the scent of cinnamon and cloves filled the house.  Very nice!

The texture was fine, the crumb was moist and tender, and the fruit came through as little bits of chewy dispersed throughout.  I thought it was interesting that I could not tell they were apricots, as the flavors of the molasses and the spices were dominant. 

It was sweet but not cloyingly so.  The exterior was a little chewy and slightly crisp, which was nice.  Later it was not really crisp but very sticky.  If you don't like cloves, find a substitution because they were very dominant, along with the molasses.  I found that there was a pleasant bitterness, which my guest taster thought was wonderful.  He decided this cake would be perfect with his 80 year old madeira, so I gave him some pieces to take home.

My conclusion was that this cake needed a frosting, so I took some cream cheese and spread it on a piece.  That was good, but what was better was mixing cream cheese with a little powdered sugar and a splash of lemon juice, mixing it until it was smooth, then spreading it on the cake.  

That was excellent.  The frosting added another layer of complexity and also balanced the bitter, sweet, and spice with a creamy texture and a little sour from the lemon juice.

I think this cake would be good with a robust tea or hot coffee.  I also think it might be good with a little finely slivered bits of candied ginger in the batter.  Perhaps replacing the cloves with powdered ginger would be good.  A sprinkling of slivered almonds over the frosting would be pretty and tasty, too.

Success!  The recipe "felt" like a quick bread but some of the techniques (cooking the fruit in molasses, mixing the wet with the dry ingredients thoroughly) were different.  I don't know what I did wrong that made the tops sink in, but it turned out to be no big deal once I turned them over.  It is very reminiscent of a gingerbread, but softer and very moist and tender.