I reserve the last post of the year for one of my most favorite recipes. This time I want to profile one of my most favorite cookbooks. I realized while making one of its recipes that I have used it regularly for more than 20 years and have never been disappointed. I've shared it with friends, talked about it with others, and tried a variety of its recipes. That makes it long overdue for highlighting on my blog.
The book is Classic Liqueurs, The Art of Making and Cooking with Liqueurs by Cheryl Long and Heather Kibbey. I came across it one day while traveling: I needed a break from driving and saw a large tent sale of some kind in a parking lot. What I discovered was a used book sale which was, of course, heaven! This book just asked to go home with me, and I am so glad it did.
ISBN 0-914667-11-4 |
The books tells, simply and exactly, how to make the world's most famous liqueurs as well as exquisite fruit liqueurs in the home kitchen. ... Their easy and natural approach results in high-quality liqueurs.
The chapters include the basics of liqueur making, making fruit liqueurs, and making non-fruit liqueurs, serving and mixing liqueurs, and cooking with liqueurs. The authors' backgrounds include being a food consultant, an editor of restaurant magazines, teachers of cooking classes, and a food columnist.
A liqueur consists of three basic ingredients: alcohol, sugar, and flavoring. (Although they list "alcohol, water, and flavorings" because they discuss how water quality varies and can influence the liqueur's final result. Sugar is important, so I include it.) The alcohols that I've used are vodka and brandy, but you can use other types like pure grain alcohol, cognac, whiskey, scotch, and rum.
The flavorings vary between fresh and dried fruits, fruit peels, seeds, herbs, and spices. They recommend other ingredients to adjust the body and smoothness of the liqueur, none of which I have ever used.
Something you have to know about making liqueurs: they require a lot of patience. Quite often they are quick and easy to assemble (like the recipe I describe below) but then you have to wait, often for weeks, while the flavors infuse into the liquid. After that, you have to wait for months for the liqueur to age. Planning ahead if you are considering liqueurs as gifts is crucial.
But oh, it is worth it. Aging brings a smoothness to the flavor and the mouthfeel. The taste sensations go from "good" to "sublime." And while the authors mention that most recipes reach their peak flavor after a year of aging and hold that for up to three years, I have tried my liqueurs after they aged for a decade or more and still found them to be wonderful.
One aspect of liqueur making that I love as compared to making wine or beer is how little space and equipment you need. Long and Kibbey's recipes make small batches (which are easily doubled), so I have a few repurposed glass jars which easily tuck onto a shelf in a cupboard to be ignored while the required infusing and aging times are passing. I have some cloth bags that I use for filtering and some metal mesh sieves that are in my kitchen for other purposes. The items that take up the most space are the bottles needed for gift-giving. I noticed I tend to hoard these, but still they don't take up much room in my storage areas. I suppose if I wanted to make a lot of liqueurs at once I might be pressed for space, but it has never been an issue.
The only complaint I have had with making small batches is that if a liqueur turns out to be quite exquisite, you only have a small amount of it. Of course, that makes it even more precious!
The overall concept of liqueur making is simple: infuse the flavors into the water and alcohol liquid (sometimes sugar is added at this time and sometimes later), strain out the solids, and finally, let the mixture age. I recommend putting notes into a calendar to remind you when to check on them and move to the next stage. I also put notes on the container, like the name and the starting/ending dates -- one friend writes the entire recipe she used as part of her container notes, which I think is an excellent idea. The cupboard should be one that is dark, cool, and out of the way.
Once you understand these basics and have tried some recipes, you can confidently try your own combinations. They didn't always turn out how I envisioned them, but they have always produced a liqueur that was worth drinking. I've used fruits like loquats and mulberries, and fruit blends like guavas-and-limes and guavas-and-cranberries. I've tossed in spices that I thought would go well with a particular fruit. I currently have a fig leaf liqueur aging. Once I had a large volume of maraschino cherry juice that I mixed with vodka and a little sugar. My guest tasters liked it but suggested it needed something more to make it "just right." One taster figured it out: a little bit of almond extract did the trick.
The recipe I want to share with you is a repeat of one I made in 2002 that turned out to be wonderful: Fresh Mint Liqueur on page 54.
1 1/4 cups fresh mint leaves, slightly packed
3 cups vodka
2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup water
1 teaspoon glycerine*
8 drops green food coloring*
2 drops blue food coloring*
*I skipped these ingredients.
The mint variety is an important choice. |
Wash leaves in cold water several times. Shake or pat dry gently. Snip each leaf in half or thirds; discard stems. Measure cut mint leaves, packing gently.
Combine mint leaves and vodka in aging container. Cap and let stand in a cool place for 2 weeks, shaking occasionally.
After the initial aging, pour liqueur through colander into a large bowl to remove the leaves; discard leaves.
In a saucepan, combine sugar and water. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Let cool. Add cooled sugar syrup to mint liqueur base, stirring to combine. Add glycerine and food color; pour into aging container for secondary aging of 1 to 3 more months.
My Notes
Clamp lid, "lightning lid", jars are wonderful for this. |
In the beginning |
Boiling and getting ready to cool. |
Planning in June for a December post. |
A close-up of the color with no food coloring added. |
Liqueurs are for small quantities that are sipped and appreciated. |
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