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| ISBN 0-307-09800-1 Sunfaded from years of ownership. |
| No ice cream. : ( |
| Now they are wet and spread in pan. |
| Nuts on top and "mixed" in. |
| Done! |
![]() |
| ISBN 0-307-09800-1 Sunfaded from years of ownership. |
| No ice cream. : ( |
| Now they are wet and spread in pan. |
| Nuts on top and "mixed" in. |
| Done! |
Yesterday I posted on how to make the chocolate chiffon layers for my 12th year of food blogging celebration. Today I show how to assemble the cake. Click here to see yesterday's post.
I'm using a recipe for Chocolate Mousse Cake as found on pages 134-135 in The Greyston Bakery Cookbook, by Helen Glassman and Susan Postal.
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| ISBN 0-87773-323-6 |
It is time to bring all the parts together!
Chocolate Mousse Cake
1 recipe Chocolate Chiffon Layers (2 layers, baked and cooled)
Chocolate Mousse:
3 cups heavy whipping cream
2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa
3/4 cup sugar
Chocolate Water Glaze:
8 ounces semisweet chocolate
1/2 cup water
1/8 cup simple syrup (see directions below)
1/8 cup beaten egg (1/2 egg)
4-ounce semisweet chocolate bar, slightly softened in a warm place
Carefully split cooled cake layers in half. Place carefully on waxed paper on a flat surface.
Mousse:
Whip cream with sifted cocoa and sugar until quite firm, using an electric mixer.
Place first cake layer cut side down on cake plate. This prevents cake crumbs from coming loose in the mousse. Spread top evenly with about 3/4 cup mousse.
Repeat with additional layers, always placing cut side down.
Frost the entire cake, top and sides, with remaining mousse, covering thinly but completely. Chill in freezer about 1 hour.
Chocolate Water Glaze:
Melt semisweet chocolate and water in heavy saucepan over low heat. Stir well to make a smooth chocolate syrup.
Blend in the 1/8 cup simple syrup, made by boiling 1/2 cup water and 1/2 cup powdered sugar together for 10 minutes.
Remove from heat and allow to cool for 3 - 4 minutes.
Blend in the beaten 1/2 egg and mix thoroughly.
Let glaze cool until it is just a little warmer than body temperature.
To Finish:
Carefully shave warmed chocolate bar with a potato peeler or sharp paring knife. Use the entire 4-ounce bar.
Pour the warm glaze on the chilled mousse cake, sides first, smoothing with a knife, followed by the top. The top should be as smooth and even as possible and should be poured on, not spread like a frosting.
Press the chocolate shavings all around the sides, working quickly before the glaze sets. Keep refrigerated until you are ready to indulge.
| Ingredients for the mousse |
| Ingredients for the water glaze |
I make the simple syrup before starting on any of the other steps, although you have time to make it during the 1 hour chilling time. Once the powdered sugar and water mixture comes to a boil, turn the heat down to medium low and simmer. Stir occasionally.
To split the layers, I prefer to use toothpicks as guides and dental floss or heavy thread to cut. This keeps everything accurate while making the layers simple to split. See the pictures below.
If any of the layers break while moving them, just piece them back together in place.
Chill the mixing bowl and beater before making the whipped cream.
Plop a spoonful of mousse in the middle of the layer and then work the mousse out to the edges. This cuts down on crumbs embedding in the mousse, too. Aim to even it off across the top before the next layer is placed on it.
I use up all (well, most) of the remaining mousse to frost the entire cake, even if the layer isn't thin. Then I eat the little bit of mousse that is in the bowl.
Once the sides have mousse on them, make a final pass over them with a clean, slightly damp spreader held vertically. This smooths the sides.
When mixing the beaten 1/2 egg into the water glaze, whisk the mixture while drizzling in the egg.
Shaving warm chocolate bars is messy! Chocolate gets all over my hands. Plan for that mess during the procedure. I included in the pictures below the difference between the small shavings of a room-temperature bar and the long ones of the warm bar. I thought some were too long to go on the cake well, so after they cooled to room temperature, I broke them. That worked well.
I used a ladle to put the glaze on the sides. Once some was on the sides, I used a lightly buttered spreader to even it out. The order was: glaze the sides, then the top, then smooth the sides, then press on the shavings.
I did my best to get the glaze on smooth and evenly, but I did manage to drop a piece of shaved chocolate on the top, which messed up that smoothness. So I took a spoon and swirled the glaze decoratively around the edges of the top. That covered the mistake and still looked good.
Here are pictures of the process:
| Place 5 or 6 toothpicks at the halfway point of the layer. |
| Wrap the dental floss around the cake. Pull the ends to cut the cake. |
| One half of a layer, neatly split. |
| The mousse |
| The first layer with mousse |
| All layers with mousse. |
| Chocolate and water. |
| Smooth. |
| Cooling. |
| Room temperature shavings. |
| Warmed chocolate shavings. |
| Glazing the sides. Spread the glaze upward after the pour. |
| Glazing the top. |
| The final cake. Note I cleaned up around the bottom of the cake, too. |
Wow. 2023 marks the beginning of the twelfth year of this blog. For the record, this is the 263rd post and there have been more than 110,000 page views. There are followers on this blog and also on the Pinterest board of the same name.
My cooking abilities have improved because of my blogging experience: one guest taster noted that many of the recipes I have tried could be considered "technical challenges" a la the Great British Baking Show. So true! They fall into the category of "here are the ingredients and a general guideline of what to do, now make it and it should taste good." The thought made me laugh and also reflect on how my attitude towards cooking has loosened over the years.
This has increased my confidence in my ability to create. For example, after a holiday gathering I took a variety of leftovers from my refrigerator and made a stew: olives, pickled mushrooms, andouille sausage, chopped carrots, cherry tomatoes, French onion soup, and half a jar of marinara sauce were lubricated with some beef broth and simmered until the scent was luscious. I didn't add any other seasonings and it was just right, served up with leftover biscuits on the side. A wonderful light dinner after several days of holiday treats.
My blogging explorations have wandered far and wide across time and cultures. It is what I hoped for when I started blogging, and yet went even further than I had anticipated. I did not expect to translate an historic cookbook, and I did not know about cookbooks from, for example, medieval Syria, medieval Transylvania, ancient Baghdad, railroads, and Ukraine. My time at several culinary symposia was well-spent in trying recipes, techniques, and new foods, and (most importantly) meeting people who love historical cooking, too. I have learned and made friends.
I plan on continuing this blog and will get back to the California Food Project blog when time permits. I enjoy learning more about the food and history of my home state. Just the other day I read a book containing letters written by Laura Ingalls Wilder (of the Little House on the Prairie fame) while visiting her daughter Rose in San Francisco during its Panama-Pacific International Exposition in 1915. Along with getting a visitor's view on that world's fair, there are a few recipes at the end of the book. I plan to try one.
So I decided to celebrate these accomplishments with a recipe that could be considered a Most Favorite, but I didn't want to wait until December to post it.
The cookbook is The Greyston Bakery Cookbook by Helen Glassman and Susan Postal. The authors both trained at the Tassajara Bakery in San Francisco then helped to found the Greyston Bakery, which is operated by the Zen Community of New York. From the inside flap of the dust jacket:
In just a few short years, the Greyston Bakery ... has established itself as one of the leading practitioners of the fine art of baking. Greyston uses only the finest natural ingredients -- rich, dark chocolate, real butter, pure maple syrup, and fresh fruit -- to achieve the delicate textures and subtle flavors that make its cakes, cookies, and breads epicurean delights.
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| ISBN-10 0-87773-323-6 |
I haven't made many of their recipes (because calories!) but what I have made was good and the directions were specific enough to be really helpful. The chocolate mousse cake is one I have made many times since I obtained the book in 1989, but not recently. Sometimes I just make the mousse filling (using one-third of the quantities) as it makes a lovely dessert all by itself. Recently I modified the mousse filling and used powdered ginger instead of cocoa powder to make a topping for a pumpkin cheesecake.
This cake requires two of their recipes: one for the chiffon layers, found on page 133, and the other for the completed cake, found on pages 134-135. This post covers the layers. The next post covers assembling the cake. Let's get started, shall we?
Chocolate Chiffon Layers
6 egg whites
1 1/2 cups sugar
3/4 cup vegetable oil
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup water
1 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa
1 cup flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
dash salt
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Butter two round 8-inch cake pans.
You will need three bowls (two large, one small).
Beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1/2 cup of the sugar and continue beating in large bowl of mixer until very stiff.
Mix oil, egg yolks, water, and vanilla in small bowl.
Sift dry ingredients together into the other large bowl: cocoa, flour, rest of sugar, baking powder and soda, and salt.
Add yolk mixture to dry mixture.
Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites and gently incorporate.
Pour into two prepared pans.
Bake at 350 degrees for about 25 minutes, until the sides shrink and top springs back when lightly pressed.
My Notes
Note that the sugar is divided, and I've found it helps to measure it out into the 1/2 cup amount for the whites and then measure separately the 1 cup that goes into the dry mixture.
I've also found it helps to put the small bowl with the containers of the wet ingredients in one place on the counter and the large bowl for the dry ingredients in another. This organizational scheme reduces mistakes (don't ask!). I usually use a measuring cup as my small bowl.
I followed the directions in order and had no issues with the process.
My layers were ready after 27 minutes. I let them cool for 2 1/2 hours before moving on to creating the cake.
What follows are pictures of the process with comments along the way.
| Soft peaks and ready for the sugar. |
| Stiff! |
| Dry ingredients mixed. |
| Wet and dry mixed. |
| Batter completed with egg whites folded in. |
| Apportion the batter evenly between the pans. |
| Finished layer baked to perfection! |
I've been reading Encarnación
Pinedo's 1898 cookbook, El cocinero español. Miss
Pinedo lived near San Jose, California during the last half of the 19th century
and became an accomplished cook. Her book is the only collection of
Rancho era cooking we have, the food of the Californios. Her family lived in that
area before California became part of the United States, and they were highly
influential for many years. This is an important resource for
understanding this time period.
One category that caught my
attention was called "Ante." Now that means "before",
so I took it to mean it was an appetizer or a first course. But the
recipes described a dessert, and that confused me. Seven of the eight
recipes called for fruit cooked into a thick syrup and put into layers with an
ingredient called "mamón". The eighth called for
"bizcocho", which is a biscuit. I believed from this that mamón
was bread or cake.
A look around the internet
first seemed that my hunch was right. I found a recipe for a chiffon cake
called mamon, but it was from the Philippines, and I wasn't sure it was the
same thing. Digging some more, I found that mamón could refer to the
Spanish lime, which is like a cross between a lychee and a lime. It is a
fruit that people mostly eat fresh, although it is popular as a juice.
Looking hard at the recipes, I tried to imagine a first course refreshing
beverage made with slices of Spanish limes.
But that just didn't seem
right. Miss Pinedo lived in Northern California, and Spanish limes don't grow
there. They could have been shipped but the recipes just seem to point to
a cake.
I set that question aside and continued to read. And, guess what? I found a whole section on mamones much later on in the book. Yes, I was right, they are cakes or rolls, sweetened and sometimes flavored with anise or sweet almonds. The word "mamón" means "sucker", because sometimes they are moistened with a sugar syrup which they "suck up" or absorb. Another name for the mamón is "marquesote", and you can click here to read more about it.
To make an ante I needed to
first make a mamón, and that is what this post is about. Come back
again for the next post, which will be about the ante.
Here is Miss Pinedo's recipe,
as found on page 153 of her book.
Mamones de almidón.
Se baten veinte y cuatro
huevos, separadas las claras de las yemas, hasta que se pongan duras.
Aparte se mezclan con las
claras dos pozuelos de azúcar en polvo, y estando bien incorporada,
se le añadirán las yemas, revolviendo todo cerca de la estufa, vaciando en
el batido diez y ocho onzas de almidón de maÃz:
se seguirá batiendo con una mano mientras se le pone con la otra
el almidón, para que no forme granos. Tan luego como
todo esté incorporado, se vaciará prontamente en las cajas, que solo
se llenarán hasta la mitad para ponerlas á cocer en
un horno suave.
Starch Mamones
Twenty-four eggs are beaten,
the whites separated from the yolks, until they get hard.
In addition, two cups of
powdered sugar are mixed with the whites, and then the yolks are well
incorporated, stirring everything near the stove, then empty into the batter
eighteen ounces cornstarch: continue beating with one hand while putting
the starch in with the other, so that it does not form lumps. As
soon as everything is incorporated, it will be promptly emptied into the boxes,
which will only be filled halfway; put them to cook in a soft oven.
My Notes
I didn't know this technique,
so I looked around the internet. Click
here to see the video that helped me understand what to do. I used
the quantities in this video so I didn't have to use 24 eggs. Note that I
used powdered sugar as Miss Pinedo specified.
Redaction
5 eggs, separated
300 grams cornstarch
180 grams powdered sugar
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees
F.
Beat the egg whites until
stiff.
Add the powdered sugar in
batches and mix it well into the egg whites, using a low speed on the mixer and
stopping the scrape the sides as needed.
Add the yolks, one at a time,
incorporating each one well before adding the next.
Then add the cornstarch, a big
spoonful at a time, incorporating it well before adding the next and stopping
to scrape the sides as needed.
Once the batter is done, pour
it into pans. I chose to use four tiny loaf pans because I thought that
shape would be best for the ante. Each pan was ungreased and filled about
halfway.
The pans went onto a bigger pan
so they could all be handled at once.
They baked for 40 minutes,
until a pick inserted into the middle came out clean.
I let them cool in their pans
on a wire rack until I could easily hold them, then I slid a spatula around
the sides. They all popped out easily. They finished cooling on the
rack.
| Egg whites plus powdered sugar |
| And now with the yolks |
| The batter has the cornstarch and the pans are half full. |
| Fresh out of the oven! |
| Final cooling |
| A close up. |
The Verdict
I sliced one loaf into 1/2 inch wide pieces lengthwise. The texture was perfect: uniformly tiny holes, no part was too dry or too wet. The exterior was just a little darker than the interior -- not over- or undercooked.
I tasted one. As a cake, it left something to be desired. The mouthfeel was more pasty than I expected, and rather dry, and the flavor was almost not there. I suppose that was to be expected as it was just cornstarch, sugar, and eggs. I think my mouth was expecting a moist piece of cake and this wasn't it.
But I knew how it was to be handled for the ante, so I consider it a success. Tune in to the next post to see how the ante turned out.
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